The whole dozer comes to a stop but RPM’s don’t drop. First when the dozer loads down while pushing dirt the tracks quit spinning the engine sounds like it is loading, but doesn’t bog down. I have a couple of issues that need to be corrected by the warranty. Well, finally got to try out the dozer last night. Will keep everyone informed on what I find out. Anyway looking forward to using it some this weekend. Have any of you dozer owners extended the exhaust pipe to above the operator compartment. In a good wind I could see having to breath exhaust. Don’t really like where the exhaust pipe exits by the cab. Need to do the recommended break in and make a determination from there on whether the steering clutches need further adjustment. Don’t understand that since free is the same on both pedals. Steering clutches work well, but the right one is tighter than the left. One track is banjo tight and the other sags more than an inch, so will adjust those to the 2/3 to 1 inch recommended adjustment. Although it looks as if they attempted to service it, I found a few zerks that had no grease, so going to go through the whole dozer tonight and grease as Bob has recommended. Drove it up to the house and parked it until I can mess with it this evening. The engine air cleaner will require more frequent inspections due to it’s location – the fan will blow dust directly into it. The left steering clutch cross shaft has no provisions to grease it so a generous application of penetrating oil should be applied at service intervals. You may find that you will have to replace a lot of grease zerks so a good supply of metric zerks will come in handy. One shot for the drive clutch release bearing. Don’t assume the machine has been greased – six shots in each track adjuster spring (these tracks are not adjusted with a grease gun), four shots in all the track rollers and the two idlers, two shots in the swing frame pivots and the equalizer trunnion up front underneath the radiator, and all of the dozer blade zerks. When you take delivery remove the large plugs under the steering clutch compartment (these are die cast with an external hex) and inspect for oil – there shouldn’t be any. Well, first of all I would want to be assured that a good pre-delivery service was performed, all oils changed over from the Chinese shipping oils, the cooling system was flushed and refilled with a suitable coolant, steering clutch/brakes are adjusted properly. I like to be able to get onto one of my pieces of equipment and know that it is ready to work. I am a person who is very particular when it comes to maintenance. As far as maintenance goes, it looks pretty straight forward, but if anyone has any tips that go the extra mile and help take care of the machine better, I want to learn. I would rather not find out something through the school of hard knocks that the machine should not do, when someone has already graduated that school and could share that valuable information before I have to pay admission. I know this is a smaller dozer and will be good for what it is designed to be used for. What I was looking for primarily is, the do’s and don’ts. (Didn’t say why) I don’t need the FEL I have 2 LS tractors that fill that bill. I checked with Keno tractors, because their Yuchai dozers come with one, but they don’t expect to get any new dozers in for sale this year. So I guess one leg will get a good workout. I would love a shuttle clutch, but Nortrac does not offer that. I am and electrical contractor/electronics mechanic and have a small farm, so I am familiar with many types of equipment. I would not call myself an expert on any of them, but do have many hours in the seat of tanks, crawlers, dozers, track loaders, etc. I do have experience with tracked machines. I like the Nortrac 2 year parts and labor warranty. I have looked at dozens of used small dozers and have found none that I would sink good money into. That is one of the reasons I am going the Nortrac route. I have been stalking your posts for some time.
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